Chapters VIII and IX of The Complete Book of Big Wall Climbing

 

 

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Absolutely the most comprehensive description of big wall rope management techniques in existence.  It includes the simplest techniques to the most advanced, from siege tactics to speed methods.  It covers both team travel and solo climbing.  Each and every effective management method is thoroughly explained and carefully diagramed, in great detail.  This is the only book dedicated exclusively to the application of ropes in big wall climbing.  If you genuinely want to become a big wall climber, commanding an understanding of every last skill that it really takes to do so (especially if you ever wish to solo big walls), then you will want this book, because it will show you how.

(Unlike The Complete Book of Big Wall Climbing, this is a field manual.  It can be taken to the rock (and up the rock) as an “in-action” reference guide, where taking the four-and-a-half pound Ground Manual might be rather impractical.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Excerpt…

            Ropes are the primary tethers of big wall travel.  A rope is your connection to "solid ground".  It is the "escalator up" to the next station or the "elevator down" to the station below, and your only means of escape back to earth.  Ropes are the fundamental tool with which everything and everyone moves and upon which all other climbing technology is based.  Rope is an ancient invention and happens to be the one tool that has allowed human beings to pioneer the vertical surfaces of the planet.  Nothing else can do what a rope does except another rope!

 

 

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

 

Preface . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  i

 

VIII.  SAILS [ROPES AND CORDS] . . . 259

Rope Bags and Buckets . . . . . . . . . 261

Middle Markers and End Markers . . . 262

Dry Ropes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 263

Washing [Untreated] Ropes . . . . . . . . . 264

Designation vs. Color, Diameter, or Weave . . . 264

Applications. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 264

Lead Line . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 265

Spare Lead Line. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 266

Haul Line. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 267

Lower-Out Line. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 268

Using Haul Line as Lower-Out Line. . . . 269

Extending Lower-Out Line With Lead Line . . . 269

Full Length, Second, or Extra Long Lower-Out Line . . . 270

Tagging . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 271

Tag Line . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 272

Free Line. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 276

Belay Line . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 278

Fixing Only Line . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 278

Docking Tether . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 279

Catch Line(s). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 279

Waste Line(s) or Trash Line(s) . . . . . . . 279

 

 

 

 

 

IX.  NAVIGATION [ROPE MANAGEMENT] . . . 285

Considerations for Selecting Ropes . . . 286

Leading Strategies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 287

Separate Bivouacs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 287

The Haul Line as The Free Line . . . . . 288

Extending Haul Line With Lead Line. . 288

Extending Lead Line With Haul Line. . 288

Extending Lead Line With Tag Line.  . . 288

Self Belay and the Continuous Loop . . .   289

Team Strategies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 291

Guided . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 292

Consultant    . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 292

Alternating Leads, Classic Method  . . . . 293

Alternating Leads, Speed Method . . . . . 295

Leading in Blocks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 297

Leading in Blocks, Two lead Lines . . . . 298

Leading in Blocks, Single Lead Line. . . 300

Leading in Blocks, Continuous Assisted Belay . . 302

Running Belay. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 304

Continuous Ascending Belay. . . . . . . . . 305

Single Rope Speed Method . . . . . . . . . . 305

Teams of Four . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 306

Replacing Assisted Belay With Self Belay . . . 308

Combining and Modifying Strategies . ..  308

Unplanned Self Belay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 309

Solo Strategies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 309

Bivouacking Before Cleaning . . . . . . . . . 310

Single Rope Method. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 311

Traditional Solo Method   . . . . . . . . . . . . 313

Continuous Loop Solo Method . . . . . 313

Solo Tagging . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 315

Hauling The Tag Rack . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 317

Tagged Haul Line(s) – Free Line. . . . . . 318

Tagged Haul Load (Partial Hauling)  . . . 319

Unassisted (Automatic) Lower-Out of Tagged Load . . . 322

Traditional Solo Method with Tagging . . . . . . . . . . . . . 325

Continuous Loop Solo Method with Tagging   . . . . . . 325

Continuous Loop Solo Method, Double Tagging . . . 327

Assisted Solo. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 330

Solo Towing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 333

Summary  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 333

 

 

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