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Chapter VII of the Complete Book of Big Wall Climbing

Absolutely the most comprehensive description of how to build a big wall belay station and how to haul a load from such a station, using the most advanced techniques ever developed. This is the only book dedicated exclusively to big wall hauling. To be able to climb big walls, you MUST be able to haul; and haul over or around any obstacle encountered. If you genuinely want to become a big wall climber and be able to haul the kind of loads that it really takes to do so (especially if you ever wish to solo big walls), this book can replace years of perilous risk and uncertain speculation about how to do it best. The methods are tested, and now commonly applied to big wall climbing around the world. Save yourself some time, get straight to the climbing, make the hauling easy, learn it from a book and from the pros who know.

(Unlike The Complete Book of Big Wall Climbing, this is a field manual. It can be taken to the rock (and up the rock) for “in-action” reference guide, where taking the four-and-a-half pound Ground Manual might be rather impractical.

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Excerpt…

“The belay station anchors EVERYTHING. It is the connection that cannot and (at least in theory) will not fail. Once constructed, the belay station is one of those rare things, such as the integrity of the lead line, that must be taken for granted in a world where as few things as possible should be taken for granted. The station must bear the weight of everything, and do so as more force is added by the energy of climbers jumping up and down on anchors as they ascend rope and haul. The belay station must be very strong indeed. It must be very strong, because it is your sole and only hold onto life itself. Should it ever fail, you, and anyone with you or under you, will very probably die.”

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

i. Preface . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . i

VII. LAYING ANCHOR, RAISING CARGO [STATIONS, HAULING] . . . . . . . . . . . . 177

Belay Stations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179

Prebuilding the Belay Stations. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179

Power Point. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 191

Cordelette. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193

Stations With Two Anchors Only. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195

Stations With More than Three Anchors . . . . . . . . . 196

Load Release Knot. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197

Carabiner Clutch With Load Release Knot. . . . . . . . 201

Prusik Combined With Load Release Knot. . . . . . . . 202

Haul Load Suspension Point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203

Simple Load Suspension Point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203

Docking the Haul Load. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207

Load Suspension Point With a Swivel’ . . . . . . . . . . . 211

Adjustable Load Suspension Point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211

Far End Hauler. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 217

Full Two-to-One (2:1) Load Suspension Point. . . 219

Releasing the Haul Load . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221

Operating Lower-Out of Haul Load.. . . . . . . . . . . . . 223

Lower-Out Line is Not Recovered . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223

Recovering the Lower-Out Line . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225

Docking and Lower-Out With Daisy Chains . . . . . . . 226

The Hauling System. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227

Pulleys . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229

Simple One-to-One (1:1) Hauling . . . . . . . . . . . . 229

Partial Hauling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231

Counterbalanced Hauling. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233

Consecutive and Concurrent Hauling. . . . . . . . . . . . . 233

Compound Pulleys. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233

Low Gear [Two-to-One (2:1)] Hauling Ratchet. . 235

Extra Low Gear [Three-to-One (3:1)] Hauling . . 253

High Gear [One-to-One (1:1)] Pedal Hauling . . . 255

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© 2006 C. Tucker (Chongo)

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